The following
is courtesy of "East Coast Modeling Center." By:Jim
Ewing
One very popular category
for Radio Controlled aircraft is the glider or sailplane. It is
also an excellent way to get into the R/C aircraft hobby as it is
less expensive and somewhat less complex than powered aircraft.
Even though a glider is not powered, it can sustain flight for
quite long periods of time and can reach high speeds, depending
on its design. Many gliders are light and very stable making them
an excellent choice for a beginner to learn to fly.
There are two basic ways for
a glider to retain or gain altitude once airborn and these are
one, by thermal lift, and two, by slope lift.
Thermal lift is created by areas of warm
air rising from the land. As the land heats up with the warmth of
the sun, the air above it will begin to warm by the heat
radiating from the land. This is especially true over terrain
such as a freshly plowed field or a paved parking area. As the
air heats, it will begin to rise and allow cooler air to move in
to replace it. This air, in turn, will heat up, rise, and you
will get a continuous current of rising air. As long as the air
is rising at a rate greater than a glider sinks while in flight,
the glider can sustain lift.
Gliders designed for thermal soaring are
generally of similar shape with long, slender wings for greater
lift and a sleek body for low drag. Many will have wings with
polyhedral (a multiple dihedral) and the tail surfaces may take
several forms such as a conventional tail, crusifix tail, T-tail,
or V-tail. Thermal gliders are generally grouped into four
different classes.
Hand Launch - The smallest is the
"hand launch" glider with a span up to 1.5 meters
(59"). These models are, as the name implies, launched by
hand and it is up to the pilot to remain airborn for as long as
possible. It certainly helps to have a good throwing arm with
these models! "Hand launch" is perhaps not the best
place to start as generally these models are small enough to
require miniature radio equipment which is a bit more expensive
than the standard size equipment.
Two Meter - The second, and most
popular size of glider is the "2-Meter" with a wingspan
of up to 2 meters (78"). These models will usually
accomodate standard radio equipment and require 2 channels of
control; the rudder for steering and the elevator for pitch. Many
have detachable wing panels for easy transportation and storage.
Launching is best accomplished by either hi-start or winch as
discussed later.
Standard Class - The third class
of sailplane is the "standard class" with wingspans of
up to 100". These models will accomodate standard radio
equipment of 2 to 4 channels, the additional options being flaps
and spoilers. Again, launching is best accomplished by either
hi-start or winch as discussed later.
Open Class - The fourth and
largest size of sailplane is the "open class" and this
encompasses all gliders over 100" in span. Again 2 to 4
channels of control are the norm and launching is best
accomplished by winch as discussed later.
Once airborn, if lift is poor or the
pilot is unskilled, the glider may only remain aloft for a couple
of minutes. But if there is reasonable lift and the thermal pilot
has a bit of experience, he should be able to keep his craft
aloft for 5, 10, 15 minutes, or even longer.
Slope lift is generated by a breeze
hitting the face of a cliff or sloping land as depicted in the
accompanying diagram. As the breeze hits the vertical surface, it
has no where to go but up. As with thermal soaring, as long as
the upward movement of the air is greater than the sink rate of
the glider, the craft will remain aloft.
All classes of glider will work well in
slope lift as there is usually more lift available and
weight/wing loading is not as critical. Gliders designed for
thermal soaring are better suited to light winds when slope
soaring unless they can be ballasted for a higher wing loading.
When there is lots of wind available, take out a glider that is
designed specifically for slope soaring for a really exciting
time. These craft are usually designed with shorter, swept wings,
sleek fuselages, and are extremely fast and agile. Many look like
jet aircraft. They are capable of most aerobatic manoeuvers and
will sustain flight as long as there's a breeze!
Launching a glider in slope lift is as
simple as tossing the model out over the slope, however,
launching for a thermal flight takes a bit more equipment. There
are four basic ways of getting a thermal model into flight, a
hi-start, a winch, a glow engine power pod and an electric motor.
Hi-Start - The hi-start is
basically a very long sling-shot. It consists of a length of
surgical tubing (usually 50 to 100 feet) staked to the ground at
one end and fastened to about four times as much nylon line (200
to 400 feet) at the other. A parachute/ring assembly on the end
of the nylon line is clipped to a hook on the bottom of the
glider at approximately the center of gravity. The tubing is
streched to almost four times its length. When the pilot lets go
of the model, it will soar at a very steep angle until the tubing
has relaxed and the model is at peak altitude (anywhere from 250
to 400 feet). At that time, the line will drop off the hook and
the parachute will guide the line back to the ground. Since
launches are always made into the wind, the parachute will carry
the line back toward the general location of the launch. The
hi-start is an excellent choice for the beginning sailplane
pilot.
Winch - The winch will launch a
glider in a manner very similar to that of a hi-start, but the
mechanism to accomplish this is much more complex and much more
expensive. Generally winches are homemade and consist of an
electric motor, powered by a 12 volt car battery, driving a drum
onto which the nylon towline is wound. Again, a parachute is used
for retrieval of the line. The motor is operated by a foot switch
which is quite often pumped by the operator so as not to
overpower smaller gliders. The power of a winch is substantially
greater than that of a hi-start and that is why it is more
suitable for the larger models found in "open class".
Power Pod - The third method of
glider launch is by glow engine power assist. This is basically a
small engine mounted in a pod atop the center of gravity of the
model. It is used to bring the model to altitude and then is shut
off or runs out of fuel. This is a great way for attaining very
high altitudes with your model but gliding performance will
suffer with a pod mounted engine due to the extra drag.
Electric Motor - A fourth method,
which has become very popular with the advancement in NiCd
technology, is an electric motor launch. The electric motor is
mounted in the nose of the aircraft and will quite often have a
folding prop which will fold back against the fuselage to reduce
drag when the motor run has completed.
The motor is powered by a 6 or 7 cell
rechargable NiCd battery pack and will run for between 3 and 5
minutes. If a separate motor control is utilized, the motor may
be turned on and off during flight to regain altitude if lift is
poor. The disadvantage of the electric motor launch is that the
extra weight of the battery will increase wing loading and reduce
the glide ratio.
The following is a description of the
items you will require to get started in the sport of radio
controlled gliding:
The Glider - Just as with powered
aircraft, there are some glider kits that are better suited to
the beginner than others. A good choice would be something in the
2-meter class requiring only 2 channels of control, a kit with a
sturdy construction, and good building instructions. This type of
aircraft is recommended regardless of whether you plan to thermal
or slope soar. Models designed specifically for slope soaring are
quite a bit faster and not as conducive to learning to fly. Save
one of these for your second model.
Again, as with powered aircraft, you have
the choice of building a model completely or just doing the final
assembly of an Almost-Ready-to-Fly (ARF) kit. Your choice should
simply be driven by your desire to build. There are a few
additional items you are bound to need to complete your model,
but the list is much shorter than that required to finish most
powered aircraft. We have tried to compile a list of additional
items necessary for completing many of the kits we carry and
these are listed with the kit as described in the catalog.
The
Radio - Along with your aircraft, you will need a radio to
control it. Most aircraft radio systems are of four or more
channel capability and come with just about everything you need
including the rechargeable battery packs. There are some units available with special
functions included that are usually with more sophisticated
gliders. These certainly are not necessary for the beginning
modeler, however.
Although
your first glider will most likely only need two channels of
operation, you are still better off buying a four channel system.
That is because all four channel systems come complete with
rechargable batteries while the two channel systems do not. It is
always safer to fly radio controlled model aircraft with
rechargable NiCd batteries. By the time you outfit a 2 channel
radio with the appropriate batteries and charger, you will have
paid almost as much as for the 4 channel system. Also, the stick
configuration on 2 channel radios is more suitable for vehicles
than it is for aircraft.
One
thing you may want to look for when buying your first radio is
"buddy box" capability. The "buddy box" is
where two radio transmitters may be connected together through a
cable, the instructor holding one and the student holding the
other. The student can have control over the model as long as the
instructor holds a trainer switch on his transmitter. If the
student gets into trouble, the instructor releases the switch and
regains full control of the model. This can greatly decrease the
learning time and also be good insurance against accidents with
the novice pilot. Check with the local club or instructor to see
if they have "buddy box" capability and if so, you may
wish to purchase a compatible radio system.
Field/Launch Equipment
If you
plan to do primarily slope soaring with your model, you will need
virtaully no field support equipment short of a few tools for
minor repairs or adjustments. If you are planning to do some
thermal soaring, your needs will vary depending upon which method
you choose to get aloft.
When
Launching with a Hi-Start - Launching with a Hi-start is
probably the simplest and cleanest way to become airborn and, as
a result, it is the most popular. The only item you will need is
your hi-start. Theses come in various sizes and can be found in
the Glider Accessories section of our catalog.
When
Launching with a Glow Motor - Most 2-meter size gliders
require a .049 engine for power pod launch. For this you will
require one of the Cox .049 engines, a power pod, paint or
finishing material for the power pod if required, and a 1/2a
starter kit, which usually has everything you need including
fuel, starting battery, wrench, and glow head clip.
When
Launching with an Electric Motor - Many electric powered
gliders come with the electric motor and prop assembly as part of
the kit. The only additional items needed would be a battery
(usually two, so you can fly while the other is on charge) and a
fast charger that will operate from your 12V car battery while at
the flying field. Select the battery, charger, and any additional
accessories required with recommendations from the manufacturer
of the kit purchased, ir equivallent, as shown with the kit
listing in our catalog.
Terms to be Familiar With
Polyhedral
- Polyhedral refers to the multiple angle wing panels make with
the horizontal. A wing with polyhedral has more than two wing
panels and the angle of the wing changes at each joint.
Wing
Loading - Wing loading is defined as the weight of the
aircraft divided by the wing area. It is usually expressed in
ounces per square foot.
Glide
Ratio - The glide ratio is defined as the distance travelled
in a horizontal direction compared with the vertical distance
dropped on a normal glide. A 10 to 1 glide ratio means that the
aircraft would loose one foot of altitude for every ten feet of
distance travelled.
Conventional
Tail - A conventional tail is one with the stabilizer mounted
directly on the fuselage and is the usual configuration of an
aircraft. These are the simplest to construct and seem to be most
popular. T-tail - The T-tail refers to a stabilizer that
is mounted on top of the fin. This brings the stabilizer away
from the turbulent air-flow of the wing and makes pitch control
more responsive. It also gets the stabilizer out of harms way
when landing on rough terrain. The T-tail construction is usually
more fragile than the conventional tail, though, and be more
difficult to build.
Crusifix
Tail - Crusifix refers to a stabilizer that is mounted part
way up the fin. This is a compromise between the conventional
tail and the T-tail combining some of the advantages of both.
V-Tail
- The V-Tail is where both the fin and stabilizer are replaced
with two surfaces mounted in a V-shape approximately 45 degrees
from the horizontal. The control surfaces mounted on a V-Tail
control the aircraft in both pitch and yaw.
Flying
Stab - A flying stab is where the stabilizer/elevator is one
complete unit which all moves to control the aircraft in pitch.
Ballast
- Ballast is extra weight added to a glider to help it penetrate
better in windy weather or to increase its speed. Ballast is
usually added in tubes in the inner portion of the wings or in
the fuselage at the center of gravity.
Tow-hook
- The tow-hook is a small metal hook mounted on the bottom of the
glider fuselage at approximately the center of gravity and to
which the hi-start or winch is connected.
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